Christmas in Cambodia

During the week of Dec. 24th - 31st, 5 friends and I explored the beautiful Kingdom of Cambodia. We flew into Phnom Penh (the capital), spent 3 nights in Siem Reap (where the world famous Angkor Wat is located), 2 nights in Sihanoukville (a gorgeous beach town), and back to Phnom Penh to head home (see the map below). This trip was pretty close to perfect! Everything went smoothly and harmoniously, and although things didn't go exactly as planned, everything that we did do was fantastic.

 

We arrived in Phnom Penh the night of Dec. 24th, and only spent that one night there before heading to Siem Reap. When we walked out of the airport, a man directed us to two taxis that would take us to our hostel. Now since we were in a foreign and very poor country, we were all wary of potential crimes against us. So when our two cab drivers were being extremely friendly to us, we all feared there was some catch involved. We told them we needed to buy bus tickets to Siem Reap for the next morning, so they drove us all around the city finding a bus station that was still open to sell us tickets. They were being incredible helpful, but we were still fearful it was too good to be true. We finally found a place to buy tickets, and then our drivers took us to our hostel. Once we realized they were merely being helpful and nice, I think we all felt terrible for fearing the worst, and thanked them profusely. Their generosity would be a continuous theme for every Cambodian we encountered!

 

Sunday Dec. 25th

 

On Christmas morning, we boarded an 8am bus to Siem Reap. I brought a book with me ("The Tao of Pooh"), but I didn't open it once. Instead, I was enthralled by the view out the window. We drove a one-lane road for the entire 6 hour ride through the Cambodian country side. We drove through many small communities of very modest homes made of palm leaves. Most homes had chickens and a waterbuffalo out front, along with a man-made square pond. I'm not sure what the ponds are for, though I did notice a lot of water buffalos wading in the water, probably to cool off. I sure hope the water wasn't for drinking, because it was usually green. The ponds also had several lilly pads decorated with beautiful magenta flowers. Since this was my first trip to a third-world country, I had never seen a community like this. That was the quickest 6 hour bus ride of my life.

 

We arrived at the bus station in Siem Reap and were greeted by a swarm of tuk-tuk drivers (tuk-tuks are small 4-person carriages pulled by motorcycles, our main mode of transportation on this trip). Two very nice drivers took us to our hostel. They asked us what our plan was for the next day. When we told them we would be visiting Angkor Wat, they offered to take us and be our personal chauffeurs for the whole day, for the very low price of $5/person (that's the price of a 10 minute cab ride in Korea). We of course jumped on that opportunity!

 

That evening, we walked 5 minutes from our guesthouse into a central part of Siem Reap to do some shopping and dining. We all went a little crazy with the shopping since everything was dirt cheap! Outside the shops were several water tanks with fish swimming inside. Normally, fish in tanks are eaten by people. Instead, these fish would be eating the people! Now before you freak out, let me explain. These tanks are foot baths. For $3, you dip your feet into the water and let the fish eat all the dead skin off your feet. Many of you may think, Why would anyone do this?! But I say, Why wouldn't anyone do it?! What a unique experience! So we all paid our $3 and spent about 45 minutes getting our feet tickled by fish teeth. During this time, we met a nice American fellow who was traveling solo, so after talking with him a bit, he ended up joining us for the rest of the evening, as well as the next.

 

To continue the theme of new experiences, we decided to have a very unique Christmas dinner. I ordered a meat platter which consisted of BBQed kangaroo, crocodile, and snake. I will say the kangaroo was tasty, the crocodile wasn't bad, but a little chewy, and the snake tasted good, but took about 2 minutes to chew each bite, which made it no fun to eat. It was worth the experience though.

 

Monday Dec. 26th

 

Our tuk-tuk drivers picked us up from our guesthose at 8am to take us to Angkor Wat. It is just outside the city, so the drive was only about 20 minutes. Angkor Wat is Cambodia's main attraction, and is referred to by many as the 8th Wonder of the World. If you're not familiar with Angkor Wat, it is a collection of temples and palaces all located in a park. The first buildings were built in the 11th Century when the Khmer Empire began to flourish. The region back then was Hindu, so most of the temples originated as Hindu temples. Construction continued for the next two hundred years and became the hub of the civilization. In the 1500s, the Khmer culture became Buddhist. Instead of tearing down the Hindu temples, the Buddhist rulers just adapted them into Buddhist temples.

 

The buildings are farely well in-tact still, though they are only now used as a tourist destination and require plenty of upkeep and renovation. Though I have never been to Rome or Greece to see the Colloseum and Parthenon, I would argue that the architecture and engineering feats required to contrust Angkor Wat rival those of the Romans and Greeks. Of course, Angkor Wat was built about 1000 - 1500 years later than many of the Roman and Greek relics. Then again, when Angkor Wat was built, the UK still only consisted of local, primitive clans.

 

It's hard to describe what it's like walking through those structures. I had never been to anything so old, so awe-inspiring. I tried imagining what it would have looked like when first built, what kind of paint would be on the walls, what kinds of people were walking around, what kind of energy it had. I think the best depiction I can offer is from the photos I took, so I will suggest you see for yourself.

 

I knew there were some monkeys in Cambodia. Having never seen wild monkeys, that was one of the things I most wanted to see. In fact, I told my friends I want a monkey on my head! Well, at Angkor Wat, my wish came true. We found a community of monkeys who looked more or less harmless, so we slowly approached them. They seemed entirely unphased and unthreatened by us, and took an interest in certain objects on our persons that they could snatch and bring into the trees. I saw one monkey carrying a man's hat into a tree! So they climbed all over us, trying to take our glasses and water bottles. One monkey proceeded to climb on my head, though it wasn't the fun, cute experience I had hoped for. I was surprised by having a monkey on my head, so I flinched a bit, and then felt the monkey's fangs dig into my scalp! This was no longer fun, and that monkey was no longer cute. I shook him off me and decided to get the hell out of there!

 

(In case you're worried, I can assure you that I am fine after the monkey bite. I've only foamed at the mouth a little.)

We spent most of the day at Angkor Wat, stopping at probably 10 different sites. We felt so blessed to have our tuk-tuk drivers, they were very informational, and they stopped at a lot of wonderful sites that the tours did not stop at, so the crowds were much lighter. There were few boundaries or fences that kept us out of certain places. We could even climb the temples if we wanted. It was certainly fun taking advantage of that freedom, yet at the same time, I couldn't help but feel that kind of freedom might speed up the deterioration of the structures. One of the highlights of the day was when we climbed to the top of a palace that had very few tourists. We sat on the top, with our legs dangling over the edge, looking out over the land in silence and serenity. 

I think we figured that day would be the best of our trip, but it turns out we were wrong...

Tuesday Dec. 27th

When our tuk-tuk drivers returned us to our guesthouse after Angkor Wat, we didn't have anything planned for the next day. We were thinking of just playing it by ear. Luckily, our drivers suggested we go see the "floating" village, and offered to take us there. We had no idea what the floating village was, but we accepted their offer. They had been so good to us thus far, so we figured why not spend another day with them. 

They picked us up around 1pm on Tuesday to take us to the floating village. It was a 40 minute drive through the country side, which was even more interesting and enthralling than the bus ride a couple days back. We got to a very swampy area where our drivers handed us off to a young man (no older than 17) who would drive us around the village by boat. So we boarded the boat, and our tuk-tuk drivers stayed put until our return.

It turns out that the "floating" village is not actually a village of floating homes like we expected, but rather a community of buildings on stilts above a lake/swamp. Talk about culture shock! These were all very poor homes with very minimal electricity and probably no plumbing. Yet the people appeared so happy! They waved at us from their doorways as we floated through their neighborhood. We saw kids as young as 3 years old operating their own wooden row boats, and parents not worried that their children might fall in and drown. 

Our boat stopped at one of the two restaurants in the community and we were told that for $5 we can board a smaller paddle boat and take a tour of the lake forest (and by lake forest, I mean trees that are growing out from under the water). For $5, why not?! The 6 of us were separated into two boats. My boat was guided by an older woman who was accompanied by an adorable 4 year old girl who appeared to be her granddaughter. And that's when my heart melted! This little girl sat right in front of me, and I spent the majority of that boat ride learning Khmer words from her (the Cambodian language), making funny faces, showing her my camera, and pretending to eat things on the boat. I'm sure the forest is beautiful, but I'd hardly know since this girl stole my attention. 

After our boat ride through the forest ended, we returned to the restaurant and had refreshments. The little girl joined us there, and Sarah taught her how to play a game on her iPod. Sitting on the open-air deck of that restaurant, in the middle of the most foreign neighborhood we'd ever experienced, was when I realized that this was the best day so far, and would be extremely hard to beat. Except it only got better.

Our first boat driver took us out into the open part of the lake to watch the sunset. When we got out there, we had about an hour to kill before sunset. Mike and Alisa swam in the lake while Sarah read, and Pete, Dan and I just sat and took it all in as the sun ever so slowly tucked under the horizon. 

When the sun finally set, all the boats in the lake raced back to shore, and I seriously mean raced. It was such a trip riding the boat at full speed and competing with the other boats. It was all done in good fun of course, and very entertaining.

We were reconnected with our tuk-tuk drivers, who took us back to town. They asked if we would like to go out for a drink with them. Since this was our last night with them, we of course accepted their offer. They took us to a non-touristy place where we were able to talk with them a bit and get to know them a little better. Like I said, they had been incredibly nice the entire time, but it's usually assumed that people in the service industry are just nice for the money. But when we needed to leave, one of the drivers paid for everyone's drinks! Now we really knew they were just genuinely nice guys. 

Wednesday Dec. 28th

We took an overnight bus to Sihanoukville because we discovered it would take a long time to get there. We knew we had to go through Phnom Penh, but thought the bus ride would be one straight shot. Unfortunately, we had to get off the bus at Phnom Penh at around 5am and wait over 2 hours for the next bus to take us to Sihanoukville. This was not a fun experience, especially since I hardly slept on the first bus. The bus station was also an absolute dump with very little food options and one of the most disgusting bathrooms I've ever seen. 

That being said, when we finally made it to Sihanoukville (13 hours after leaving Siem Reap), the long bus travel no longer mattered. We reserved a hostel in a small beach community outside of the city called Otres Beach. The community was hardly developed with just a small strip of hostels, beach restaurants and bars. Our hostel was 50 feet from the beach, and had a very laid back atmosphere. It was brand new, and looked like a gigantic beach hut. A handful of ex-pats, mostly British, ran the place and were extremely friendly. 

This was the part of our trip where we got lazy and relaxed on the beach. The water was warm and not too salty, with absolutely no waves. Although it would have been nice to surf, it was also nice relaxing in very calm water. When we first jumped in the water, we loudly and excitedly exclaimed, "We're swimming in the Gulf of Thailand!!!" There was a floating dock in the water where we sat and watched the sunset over the sea. We ate all our meals on the beach, and some of the members of our party got massages and manicures/pedicures on the beach. During our first night there, we ran into a man who offered to take us on a 6 hour boat tour of three islands off the coast. We accepted his offer, and arranged to meet up the next morning at 8am. They included breakfast and lunch with the boat tour, along with snorkeling, all for $15 per person. 

Thursday Dec. 29th

As planned, we met up with the boat tour at 8am for breakfast. It turned out that the 6 of us would be the only passengers on the trip! And we were guided by two men who operated the boat and cooked our lunch. Our first stop was right off the coast of one island where we snorkeled. There was coral on the ocean floor, but unfortunately it was all brown (possibly dead or dying). The fish weren't too colorful either, so I only spent about 10 minutes snorkeling. My friends really enjoyed it though, especially the ones who had never been before. I enjoyed just laying out on the boat, feeling the sun on my skin in the dead of winter. 

Our next stop was on an island where we spent a few hours swimming, eating lunch, and exploring. There was a path through the island that led to another beautiful and less populated beach. Walking through the jungle of the forest, I couldn't help but think about all the Vietnam War movies I had seen. Creedence Clearwater Revival's "Fortunate Son" played in my head. 

Our last stop was off the coast of another island for more snorkeling. I decided to just stay on the boat under the sun, enjoying the scenery. I had absolutely no problem being lazy. After all, it's a vacation, it's perfectly acceptable to do as little as possible! 

We returned to Otres Beach around 3:30pm, where we just hung out on the beach relaxing and playing in the water (and inevitably getting sunburned!). I set up my camera and tripod on the beach and took some shots of the sunset. 

Friday Dec. 31

We spent the morning enjoying the beach while we still could, because we had to take a 1pm bus back to Phnom Penh. We really did not want to leave, it was a little too nice there. And we realized that this really concluded our trip. 

Had we known what our bus ride would be like, we probably wouldn't have left. But there was no predicting that our 6 hour bus ride would be on a karaoke bus! That's right, a karaoke bus, where you can sing karaoke on the bus. And despite the fact that no one on our bus sang a single song, they had Cambodian karaoke music blasting on the speakers. We asked them to please turn the volume down, or off, but instead they played an equally loud and annoying Chinese movie overdubbed in Khmer. Even with my headphones in on full volume, it could not drown out the volume of the bus speakers. It was a nightmare! If I had to pick a low-point on the trip, this was it. But to be honest, given what can go wrong on trips like this, a nightmarish karaoke bus is really not a bad low-point. 

We arrived in Phnom Penh that evening, checked into our guesthouse, ate some dinner, and went to bed. We had an early plane to catch, so there was no staying out late for us. It was a sad night, and a sad morning.

I mentioned in the beginning that this was a very harmonious trip. I credit that mostly to the dynamic of our group. With 6 people, there is usually conflicts of interest. However, over the entire week, there was not one single argument or disagreement about what to do, where to go, or what to eat. We got along swimmingly the entire time, and never got bored with each other. Even during our last night, we still had things to talk about over dinner. I am so grateful to have gone with this group of quality individuals! This trip only made our friendships stronger, and I will forever cherish these memories with them. 

Assimilation

The other day, I was thinking about immigrants who come to America, and how some of them reach a point when either they or their children feel like they are real Americans. Not in the sense that they are legal residents or citizens, but that they feel like America is a place where they belong, and they relate to the culture. It got me thinking about what it would take for a foreigner like myself to feel like a Korean, or at least an American-Korean. Would I have to learn how to make my own kimchi (the staple of Korean food, served with almost every meal), buy my own tailor-made hanbok (the traditional Korean clothing), become conversational in the language, marry a Korean woman, and file for citizenship? I'm not saying I want to become a Korean, but it was a hypothetical question I pondered.

After some thinking, I realized that I would not want to become a Korean. I don't mean any disrespect towards the Korean culture or people, but I am an American, I have my own culture and I am happy with it. But as a recently licensed educator in the state of Oregon, my own country had little job opportunities to offer me. Korea is providing me with opportunities to make some money, pay off my debts, further my career as a teacher, and travel. Though I am interested in the Korean culture, it was not what drove me here.

All of this has recently put into perspective the experiences of immigrants in America. There has always been an attitude by many native-born Americans that immigrants should assimilate, become Americans, learn English, and embrace our culture. Although it is practical to understand the culture you are living in, and to learn some of the language that is spoken all around you, the idea of assimilation is easier said than done. We native-born Americans don't know what it takes to assimilate.

Like myself in Korea, people come to America not because they love the American culture, but because America offers better opportunities. They still love their homeland, they identify themselves with that culture, and they don't want to dismiss that. And can we blame them? People argue, "Why can't these people learn English?!" Well, I work 50 hours a week and don't have the will power or mental energy to learn Korean. I can only imagine what it would be like to be an immigrant in America working at least 50 hours a week, AND raising kids. Who's got the time to throw in English classes on top of all that?

All that being said, my family is the product of a very willing assimilation. My Italian ancestors sailed to San Francisco in the late 19th century. Despite the prominent Italian community in North Beach, my great-great grandparents made a very strong effort to remove all Italian culture from their lives. They no longer spoke Italian, saying they were now Americans. They learned English and raised three kids who looked 100% Italian, but who knew little to nothing about their heritage. In a way, it is admirable that my family made such a strong effort to adopt the American way of life, and I don't blame them for making that choice. But is it fair to expect all immigrants to make this kind of decision? Should we ask them to drop their culture and adopt something entirely foreign? The people who ask such a thing seem to think it's as easy as hitting the delete key on a computer, when in reality it can be like amputating part of oneself. There are many things about Korean culture that I just plain don't understand, and may never understand. I think it's fair to assume that many Koreans would say the same about aspects of American culture.

I am grateful that Korea allows my friends and I to act like westerners in their country. Although we have adopted certain Korean mannerisms to be polite, we still act quite different from most Koreans. We are different in the way we dress, the way we walk in public, wait in lines, use certain hand motions, the utensils we eat with, the way we date, and the way we can be quite loud! Sure we sometimes annoy Koreans with our differences, but they allow it nonetheless. I can tell you, when I return to the States, I will have no qualms with the differences in culture I see. If what they do does not harm or offend anyone, who are we to say "That's weird, don't do that!" Trust me, we're weird too.

Memoirs of a Kindergarten Teacher, Pt. 1

I am attempting to create a series of memoirs specific to my experience teaching Kindergarten. Here is my first installment:

“Touchy Hands”

My kids, like most kids, can be very touchy people. Sometimes as I am working with an individual student at their desk, they will grab my hand and hold it while we work. Sometimes kids will just run up to me and wrap their arms around me, and sometimes they grab my arms and wrap them around their own body. Often, as I walk down the middle aisle in my classroom, the kids will reach out with their hands and try to grab me and pull me towards them. I feel like I’m running through a graveyard where bodies are crawling out of graves and grabbing anything that moves past them. But it’s also kind of adorable. Luckily I teach in a country that encourages physical affection with kids, so I don’t need to worry about being accused of child molestation for simply hugging a student. And frankly, I like being able to hug my students and hold their hands… until I see them shove their hands down their pants (both front and back!) or shove their fingers in their mouths and up their nose (and sometimes back in their mouths!). The bottle of hand sanitizer next to my podium gets plenty of use!!

“I love you Mom and Dad”

On Thanksgiving, I had my kids make cards for their parents to show their gratitude for all that their parents do for them. The front of the card said “Happy Thanksgiving”, and underneath that was a typical hand-turkey drawing. Inside the card they wrote “Thank you for being such wonderful parents! I love you so much!” As I walked around the class, checking out each student’s card, I noticed one of my students writing “Thank you for all the wonderful things you do. I don’t like you very much.” I said “Meen, you can’t write that! You can’t give a card like that to your parents!” And he said “But my mom and dad always yell at me.” I tried telling him that sometimes parents yell and get mad, but that they do love us, and we love them. But he was insistent on the fact that he did not love his parents. I made him change his card anyway.

At the end of the period, I reminded them how important it is to say thanks to our parents because they do so much for us and love us very much. To my surprise, more students were making comments that their parents don’t love them, that they yell at them and hit them, and so they don’t like their parents. I tried arguing with them that they do indeed love their parents and that their parents do so much for them, but they weren’t accepting it. So what else could I say? I had to walk away hoping that these kids were just pretending.

The next morning, I asked my students if they gave the cards to their parents. They said they did, but half of the students said their parents threw the cards in the trash! I couldn’t believe what I was hearing! I mean, yes, it’s just a piece of construction paper with sloppy writing and a hand-turkey drawing. But come on, it’s also an adorable card that your precious son or daughter made to say thanks. Isn’t that the kind of thing parents are supposed to treasure for years? More and more I am feeling like I cannot grasp the dynamics of parent-child relationships in this country.

“Emergencies”

Not long ago, one little girl in my class raised her hand. I walked up to her, squatted down next to her, and asked her what she needs. She has the poorest speech in my class, and I cannot always make out what it is she is saying. So as she was talking to me, the only words I could make out were “emergency” and “the baby mouse is poking its head out the hole”. I racked my brain trying to interpret this message. Mice are practically nonexistent in this country, so clearly she does not see a baby mouse. But she did say emergency. What’s the emergency? And then it hit me. “OH! Do you have to go to the bathroom??” “Yes” she replied. Apparently she was having an emergency, and now I know what kind of baby mice exist in Korea.

“Man’s Best Friend”

I have a laptop in my classroom that is connected to a big screen TV. There are several online lessons that I do with my students, so they can view the lessons on the TV. The desktop wallpaper on my laptop is an adorable photo of my dog Boswell, and the kids are very familiar with the Bos. Every time they see his photo, they yell with joy “BOSWELL!” I have told them stories about him, and explained to them how sweet he is, especially with little kids. You see, in Korea, pets are not a typical part of a family. And since most people live in apartments, dogs are not a common pet. So I try to explain to them how wonderful dogs are.

One week, we read a story about a boy who finds a dog in his front yard. He instantly falls in love with the dog and wants to keep it, but knows his father won’t allow it. So I asked my students, “If you found a dog, would your parents let you keep it?” One of the boys raised his hand and said “My mom says she hates dogs except for eating!” My only reaction to that statement is, Well… that’s Korea!

“Yes? No? Yes. No?”

The vast majority of students at Poly School have trouble understanding whether to say “yes” or “no” to questions. As an example, I might say “You didn’t do your homework?” and they’ll say “Yes”. Now, in America, we would answer “No, I didn’t do my homework.” But my students say “Yes” because they are confirming the statement that they did not do the homework. I have learned to figure out what they mean, but sometimes I like to play with it. I will say:

“You didn’t do your homework?”

“Yes.”

“You DID do your homework?”

“No.”

“Oh, you didn’t do your homework.”

“Yes!”

“Wait, so you did do your homework??”

“NO!”

“Ok, so you didn’t do your homework?”

“YES!!”

And on and on it goes. I try to see how long it takes them to figure out their mistake, but they never do, so by the time I’m laughing and they’re yelling out of frustration, I decide to stop torturing them. 

Seoul: An Escape from Korea

I spent this weekend in Seoul with 7 of my friends. It was my first trip there, and I really had no expectations for the city. I knew it was a city of 10 million, with a metro area of 24 million, so I expected a big city! That was about it. We didn't have anything specific on our agenda, but we all had a huge appetite for western food! In Pohang, there is one American restaurant, and two Italian ones. That's all the real western food available. So when I heard that Seoul has all the ethnic foods I miss from the states, eating became my #1 priority. Here's the rundown of our trip:

We took an 11pm bus Friday night, arriving at 3:30am in Seoul. We found a neighborhood that has a lot of cheap motels (known as "love motels"... I'm sure you can figure out why), and got rooms in the only motel with vacancy. Unfortunately, there's a reason it was the only motel with vacancy. The rooms were TINY (the bed took up 80% of the room), with a bed barely bigger than a twin (and we all slept two to a bed), and a small glassed-in shower with the toilet in the middle of the shower. No toilet paper, no sink, no keys for the doors, and paper-thin walls. Other guests were up until about 6am laughing, yelling, slamming doors, and drunkenly stumbling up and down the halls, so I only got about 1 hour of sleep. Needless to say, we did not decide to stay there for Saturday night!

After a rough night, all was redeemed with breakfast! We took the subway to a neighborhood called Itaewon (ee-tay-won), which is the main hub for foreigners. You might as well be in America in this neighborhood! So since Koreans aren't big on breakfast, and Pohang has no restaurant open for breakfast, we jumped on the opportunity to eat a real western breakfast in this neighborhood! And boy did we find the perfect joint! I had french toast made from sweet, fluffy brioche bread, with bacon, strawberries, marmalade, and ricotta cheese! I could have eaten that for every meal this weekend! I never expected to miss breakfast so much, but I think it's what I miss most about American cuisine. (I would kill for a breakfast joint like Mothers, Stepping Stone, or the Redwood Cafe in Pohang!)

Next, I was pleasantly SHOCKED to find a Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf! For those of you unfamiliar with this establishment, it's a coffee chain in Southern California, and one of the few things I miss about living in LA. It's not even in San Francisco, so to find it in Seoul of all places was mind blowing. So of course I had to partake in one of their caramel ice blended drinks, despite the cold weather.

From there, our group split up to do different sight-seeing activities. I decided to check out the war memorial with three other guys. It was a beautiful, large building that not only memorializes the Korean War, but also is a museum of the history of Korean warfare. They had models of old weapons and ships, statues of fallen soldiers with plaques telling about their heroism in battle, and real tanks and planes outside. Although I've been to war museums and memorials in the states, this one felt different to me. Not only was the Korean War somewhat recent, but it's not officially over. And the South Koreans were fighting to save their country and push back a full-blown invasion. America hasn't been invaded since the War of 1812, and we've never had a serious threat of being taken over, despite the threats of Japan in WWII. As Americans we just have no idea what it's like to have our entire country threatened like that. South Koreans today still fear a continuation of war with the North and have to partake in drills in case of attacks. There are even gas masks in the subway stations in case of an attack. A completely foreign mentality from ours in America.

Our group reconvened later that afternoon and headed to the North Seoul Tower. There is a tall hill right in the middle of the city, and on top of that hill is a tall tower that overlooks the whole city. It's a very famous landmark and tourist destination, so we decided to check it out. There is a tram that transports people to the top of the hill, but we couldn't find it, so we ended up walking all the way to the top. It was quite a hike, but in the end we were all glad we did it. The views were great from the top, but we also realized that Seoul really doesn't have a skyline. Despite it's huge size, there's no downtown, no central location of skyscrapers. We got a great view of the vastness of the city (there was no end in sight), but I can't say there was anything beautiful to look at. Just a sea of lights.

For dinner, we went to a Mexican restaurant called Amigos. I had been craving Mexican ever since my second week in Korea! Unfortunately, Amigos was comparable to a Chevys, so it wasn't quite the Mexican I had been yearning for. At least our server was hispanic, so it felt a little more authentic. Luckily for us, we tried a different Mexican joint on Sunday for lunch which ended up being EXACTLY what I was looking for! It was more of a tacqueria than a restaurant, and I had the most delicious chicken burrito, with avocado, cilantro, cabbage, beans, chilies and salsa! Words can not describe how satisfied it made me feel.

Sunday was spent being mellow and mostly just eating. We found a significantly better motel Saturday night, and we all slept in a bit. So after the fantastic burritos, we found a charming coffee shop called "Thank You Nature" that had two sheep penned up outside, and we just set up camp there until about 2:45 when we had to head to the bus terminal to go home.

As you probably noticed from my title of this blog entry, this weekend in Seoul was like an escape from Korea for us. It dawned on me this morning that the foreigners who live and teach in Korea are really not getting an authentic Korean experience, and depending on where they live, can be maintaining a fairly western lifestyle. Seoul felt like Korea-light. You can eat the same foods as in America, shop at the same shops, and there are SO MANY westerners there that you can always find someone to talk to. The Koreans in Seoul even speak a lot more English than in other cities. It made me more grateful to be in Pohang. I have a great foreigner community here to keep me sane, but I also feel like I'm having a truly Korean experience here. Seoul was fun, but I would not want to live there. I feel like Pohang is an ideal location.

The War Memorial

"Thank You Nature" Coffee Shop

North Seoul Tower

Some of the quality individuals I spent the weekend with.

Photos of friends and activities

From Halloween...

Some of the guys I play soccer with:

From a going-away dinner for two friends who recently left Korea:

7 countries of origin (5 continents) represented here:

3 Months In...

After three months of living and working in Korea, I've decided to compile a list of things I've learned/observed, and express my feelings, both good and not-so-good, about these observations.

Many public restrooms do not have paper towels or air dryers. Naturally, it's inconvenient to have to dry my hands off on my jeans. On the flip side, at least it's eco-friendly!

Koreans are very willing to point out your physical characteristics. This works against my favor when they say things like "You look so young!", "You should do something about that belly.", or "You look really tired/sick!" It has worked in my favor when they say things like "You look very strong!" or "You are very handsome! Most handsome man in bar!" Unfortunately, the only people who tell me those flattering comments are men.

It has been somewhat common for random Koreans to buy me things. I really appreciate the culture they have of sharing and giving. Unfortunately, most of the things given to me have been beer and soju (a kind of rice liquor). I'd like to figure out a polite way to say in Korean, "I prefer Yoohoo."

When walking in public, it is totally acceptable to bump and push through people. As an American, this really drives me nuts a lot of the time. I try to remember that it's not rude here and I should not think of it as such, but it's hard when I'm getting pushed around. On the other hand, it's nice to know that I can push through a crowd without being apologetic!

Korea has killed off most of their animals. Squirrels, rats, deer, etc. are only to be found deep in the forests, and there are really only two kinds of birds here in Pohang, and they are not plentiful. It's sad to hear my students get excited about going to the mountains and seeing two squirrels. At least I don't have to worry about being eaten by a tiger or pooped on by a pigeon.

Koreans will eat anything that comes from the ocean, and I mean that literally. If it can be digested, it will be consumed. I would like to think this helps prevent the complete annihilation of certain fish, since they are not focused on catching just one or two species. As a consumer, though, I often have to turn down some pretty questionable seafood! Can I just get a salmon fillet?!

There are many foods here that Koreans swear are very healthy and will help immune systems, stamina, etc. This is encouraging to hear! However, when you hear the same Koreans claiming that if you turn on a fan in a room with closed doors and windows, you will die (often referred to as "fan death")... I'm not so sure I can believe what they say about their food.

Some days, all I want to do is sit in front of my computer, watch countless episodes of my favorite shows and eat a whole box of wheat thins. Unfortunately, I have yet to find anything remotely resembling wheat thins. Fortunately, I have lost weight!

Koreans claim that homosexuality does not exist in this country, and they seem to have no interest in allowing it to exist. I can not help but feel terrible for the thousands of closeted homosexuals who must live a life repressing their true identity. It makes me grateful for what tolerance we do have in the States. Because homosexuality is not acknowledged or thought about here, men are very comfortable throwing their arms around each other, holding hands, and kissing on the cheek without the fear of being called gay. I wish straight men could comfortably act this way in the States without scrutiny.

Koreans live a pretty healthy lifestyle. Obesity is almost nonexistent, and most of the food eaten is significantly better for you than what we normally consume in the States (like wheat thins). Unfortunately for foreigners like me who have a slightly thick body, we can't fit into most of the clothes here!

Despite having just as many cons and pros in the list above, my experience here has been mostly positive, and I by no means wish to give the impression that I have a lot to complain about. Life anywhere will provide things to complain about, but those things don't have to ruin our experiences.

2 Months In...

Well today marks two months into my experience here in South Korea. It is really hard to believe it's already been 2 months.

It's beginning to feel like Fall here. The daytime temperatures have been in the 60s, but the nights are getting considerably cooler than they were a few weeks ago. Within the next few weeks I anticipate much cooler weather. I'm excited to see what fall looks like in Korea. Although there are many evergreens, there are still plenty of deciduous trees that will hopefully turn to beautiful colors. The weather was perfect a couple weeks ago, high 70s, dry and clear. It reminded me of Spring at Sonoma State, the kind of days when I would take one step out of my dorm to head to class and decide it's too nice a day to be inside a classroom. That week made me feel extremely nostalgic for the Sonoma Valley, so much so it almost hurt. It was hard spending 10 hours at school on those days when I would have much rather sat outside reading and drinking some iced coffee.

Last weekend I returned to Bogyeongsa with some friends. I had no problem revisiting the beautiful, old temple and hiking along the canyon and waterfalls. I decided to hike further up the canyon rather than swim in the pools (I also refrained from jumping/slipping off the rocks!). I'm glad I did, because after hiking for about a mile and a half, it became extremely quiet, leaving the crowds behind, and I really felt like I was experiencing Korea's nature. I've posted some photos from that hike onto my shutterfly account. www.romansadventuresinasia.shutterfly.com

Here's a video of Bogyeongsa:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7vPNp76-Jg

This last Saturday I drove to the town of Andong with some friends. We were fortunate enough to have two friends with cars, so ten of us carpooled there instead of taking a bus. Andong was having a mask festival, and it sounded like a cultural experience worth having. It was located at their fairgrounds, and felt very much like a festival in the states. They had lots of food stands, typical games like throwing baseballs at stacked bottles, and live performances of traditional korean dancing and drumming. We spent a few hours there, then headed to a traditional village 30 minutes away for a fire/fireworks show!

At this fire/fireworks show, they threw flaming barrels of hay off a high cliff, all landing in the same spot, creating a gigantic fire. They also floated candles down the river, and had a fireworks display at the end. It was quite beautiful. Unfortunately, we had no idea what the meaning or significance was for throwing the flaming hay barrels off the cliffs. That's when it comes in handy to have Korean friends!

Here is a video of the mask festival and fire show:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bJbHsczquU

I must admit, I'm coming to realize that I really don't love my job. I can't say I hate it by any means, but it leaves me feeling so exhausted! Teaching is the kind of job that requires constant positive energy by the teacher, especially with the young students, and some days it is such a struggle for me to be peppy and upbeat. I hope I adjust to these long hours eventually, because otherwise it'll be a tough year. On the flipside, I have been making a good effort to spend my free time doing great things. I'm still playing soccer every Tuesday night and loving it. I helped start a discussion group for Thursday nights where we sit around at a cafe and talk about anything from current events, politics, philosophy, literature, etc. We are calling it the Socrates Club. I found a rock climbing gym and a few people who are interested in climbing, so I'm hoping to start climbing this week. I've also started learning how to drive a scooter. I don't think I'll end up buying one, especially with the cold weather coming soon. But I have three friends who have scooters and have offered to let me borrow theirs if I need (and I think they're also hoping I can become their designated driver!). It's definitely a little nerve-wracking driving a scooter, but I'll soon get used to it.

My friends and I are starting to plan our holiday trip to Cambodia. As I have done some research on the country, I have become EXTREMELY excited! If you're wondering why, read www.lonelyplanet.com/cambodia

To my friends and family in the States, I miss you terribly.

Be well.